Thursday, February 8, 2007

Picture This...

When coming up out of I.M. Pei’s pyramid at the Louvre, your eyes are drawn straight ahead of you to a large expanse of land showcasing some important Parisian landmarks. First is the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel du Louvre which was built in 1806 to celebrate the glory of—who else, but Napoleon. The four-horse chariot on top brings back fond memories of the original horses displayed in Saint Mark’s Basilica in Venice. Napoleon “captured” these from Venice to top his arch but they only remained in Paris for six years until he returned them in 1815. We could almost touch the ancient horses in Saint Mark’s—they’re so life-like—and although I wasn’t supposed to, I did get a great “print” picture of them. After admiring the bas-reliefs commemorating Napoleon’s victories in the rose marble and strolling through the arch, you enter the Tuileries Gardens (tuileries for the tile kilns which originally occupied the site). The Tuileries Palace, built over many years and connected to the Louvre on both ends creating an enclosed courtyard, had a long history as a royal residence and government offices. In those days, the gardens offered a promenading place for the well-to-do, members of the court, and for royalty. They were forbidden to soldiers and servants except on certain festival days. During the Commune in 1871, however, the palace was torched and burned for 48 hours. After sitting in ruins for over a decade, the government decided not to restore it. Today the gardens cover about 63 acres and still closely follow the design laid out by the architect in 1664. There are reflecting pools, many statues, zillions of green metal chairs for relaxing, play areas, cafes, and of course the proverbial carrousel. And people still stroll through them and pretend they’re royalty. As you leave the opposite end of the gardens, you enter the enormous place de la Concorde. This octagon at the base of the Champs-Elysees was created in 1748 to display the equestrian statue of King Louis XV and was therefore named place Louis XV. While still under construction in 1770, an impressive fireworks display to honor the marriage of Marie-Antoinette and the future Louis XVI unfortunately got out of control and 133 people died in the ensuring blaze—an ominous start to both the marriage and the square, wouldn’t you say?

King Louis XV’s statue was eventually taken down; the new revolutionary government erected a guillotine; it was renamed place de la Revolution; and more than 1,000 people were beheaded here at the end of the 18th century, including King Louis XVI, his queen, Marie-Antoinette, and Robespierre. It was renamed place de la Concorde in 1830, and King Louis-Philippe replaced the guillotine with the 250-ton Egyptian obelisk of Luxor.

The 3,300-year-old, 72-foot column was presented to France by the viceroy of Egypt in 1829 and placed in the center of place de la Concorde in 1833. It is made out of red granite decorated by hieroglyphics exalting the reign of Pharaoh Ramses II and diagrams on the pedestal explaining how the obelisk was transported from Egypt on its two-year journey. Less is known about the two beautiful fountains decorating the center of the square but they recall those of Saint Peter’s in Rome. One is dedicated to river navigation, the other to maritime navigation (Fontaine des mers). The eight statues representing the cities of France (Bordeaux, Marseilles, Nantes, etc.) and the Marly horses (the originals are now kept safely in the Louvre) were installed in 1790.

The grandeur of this square cannot escape you. On one side, you look back through the gardens at the Louvre; on the other side, you see the Arc de Triomphe at the top of the Champs-Elysees and the modern structure, La Defense, w-a-y out in the distance. Place de la Concorde is one thing during the day but at night, the light from the street lamps gives the square a magical touch, and a central place from which to view many fine sights, including the Eiffel Tower.