Thursday, April 12, 2007

Paris Passages - Part I

In the early 19th century, Paris boasted 140 passages crossing the Grands Boulevards from North to South, often fitted with glass roofs and charming architecture that gave them a unique brightness. Originally, these shopping passages were designed to protect pedestrians from the weather and splashes from passing buggies and vehicles. Parisians would come to the passages to be seen, to promenade, and to seek entertainment. The first photo is taken at the Passage des Princes. Over the years, the passage of time took its toll on the arcades; but many have been recently renovated and restored to something close to their former splendor. The occupants include cafes and chic boutiques as well as shops selling precious books, toys, unframed prints, gifts, antiques, rare coins, and maps. Many of the shops tucked into the passages are not your normal magasins—you may even find a shop that still carries an 18th century permit to sell only gloves and fragrances. I discovered that shops selling gloves also sold perfume in order to cover up the smell of tanning leather. (This explains why some French women put perfume between their fingers…)

The entrances to the various arcades are easy to miss and upon entering and browsing through the passages, you may be surprised about where you emerge at the other end. Surprised and lost!








Although there is only a handful left today (about 20), they continue to capture the charm of another era.

I mentioned one of the most elegant and luxurious ones, Galerie Vivienne, on 1/14/07 and 2/15/07. This passage was built in 1823 thanks to money coming from stock exchange speculations in real estate. Its flamboyant beauty and obvious grandeur is enhanced by the Grecian décor and the marine embellishments. Some of the entrances lead to walkways that appear to be renovated; however, notice the worn flooring at this entrance (above), which I loved.

Passage des Panoramas, built in 1799 by the American James Thayer, was a great success with the Parisians who flocked to admire its painted frescos (panoramas). It was here that the first Parisian gas lamps were installed in 1817.



In spite of the disappearance of these panoramas when the passage was destroyed in 1831, the arcade was replaced in 1834 and remained one of the favorite places for Parisians to stroll. It connects the Grands Boulevards and the Stock Exchange or the Bourse district . One of the original shops, Stern Graveur (engraver), still exists today.