Café Life and Other Observations

It is true what you’ve heard about sitting in a Paris café, on their patio or sidewalk. One cup of café, a beer, a glass of wine can “buy” you a table for as many hours as you want. This is especially wonderful on a sunny day—which means that on those days, it’s very hard to find a seat in the outside dining area. After the waiter delivers your treat, you may never see the monsieur again. When you’re finally ready to leave, you’ll have to catch his eye to get your l’addition (bill). (All of the above is especially true in a non-tourist café or restaurant—you may sense a little more “encouragement” to leave an establishment in a tourist area; i.e., the bill delivered with your drink or food. This still doesn't mean you have to leave however..)

Waiters in Paris are professionals and respected in their role; they are not working part-time while going to school, waiting for their Hollywood break, etc. They do not appreciate being summoned using the word “Garcon” (boy); they are addressed as “Monsieur,” "Madame," or “Mademoiselle.” They definitely know their business, take pride in what they serve, and are knowledgeable about ingredients and methods of preparation.

This also reminds me of some tips I learned about choosing a good place to eat. Because Americans traveling in Europe are usually intimidated by the language, guidebooks recommend restaurants with menus in English and ones with English menus in the windows. In those restaurants, you will find waiters who always speak English (most of them do anyway) and other readers (tourists) of guidebooks. These restaurants are not necessarily better and are, more often than not, more expensive.

Clues to discovering the neighborhood spots—there’s usually a hand-written menu en francais in the window or on a slate (l’ardoise), which means that the menu changes daily to highlight the fresh ingredients (above photo). A board that displays a permanent menu (below)—just the opposite.

If the restaurant is empty at 1:00 or 9:00 PM, then it probably doesn’t have very good food, according to the locals. Another valuable hint: lace curtains are a sign of the little mom and pop spots, which are famous for good and less expensive food. When you’re on a budget, eat your biggest meal at lunch, which is always less expensive, and go light or cook at dinner (if you stay in an apartment). And the language? You can solve this issue by carrying a pocket menu decoder.

There is little that is truly cheap in Paris (except the .95 Euro cheeseburger at McDonald’s and I’m not above eating there) but prices are more reasonable in the neighborhood bistros (a Russian word meaning “hurry”) or brasseries, which serve food all day (fancy restaurants and many bistros open for lunch and then close during the afternoon before opening again for dinner). Food served in a bistro or brasserie may not be as beautifully presented but it can be delicious. Ordering a la carte or from the standard carte (menu) results in the highest bill. Most places offer a prix fixe or fixed-priced plat du jour (plate of the day) which is a suggested combination of courses and makes use of the food currently in season. Lucky you if it also includes a glass of house wine.

By the way, the cost of an average meal, which is usually two or three courses with at least one glass of wine—or two—and coffee is $25-30. This includes tax and tip (usually 15%); the menu will say service compris (service included). Even if it says service non compris (or not included), you will still see a service charge on the bill. So don’t get caught doing the American thing—leaving another 15% tip on the table. But it is customary to leave a Euro or two depending upon the quality of service. Bon appetit!

PS – The café photo at the top was taken by Suz in the Left Bank area.

More about Les Chiens

According to the Mairie de Paris (city hall), there are about 150,000 Parisian dogs depositing about 16 tons of—you know what—on the sidewalks annually. (Some sources say there are 550,000 canines in the city!) Mayor Delanoe’s edict in 2002 about cleaning up after your pets hasn’t exactly been followed (1/25/07 post); although 97% of dog owners claim that they do.... So the Mairie is launching a new ad campaign this week trying to persuade Parisians into keeping their city clean.

They are using humor as posted on this sign instead of the threat of fines as posted on the 2002 signs (183 euros which was largely ignored). The message is designed to be “neither moralizing nor repressive.” Its official goal is to recognize and highlight a positive evolution in current behaviors. The loose translation is, "All the left feet say: more and more dog owners pick up their pet droppings in Paris."

Frankly, I’ll be surprised if the clean-soled, talking left shoe really convinces many dog owners to tidy up after their cheries. The French just don’t seem to be receptive to all the "feel good" babble Americans are used to.

Lazy French?

In early February, France’s health minister recommended that an afternoon nap become government policy. Huh? He suggested $10 million be pledged to a program to make France more like Latin countries where the siesta is king. This is very interesting because according to some sources, France already has the reputation for being the laziest country in Europe. French workers enjoy 35 holidays a year as well as many other benefits, including at least a 90-minute lunch.

Did I see any evidence of French laziness during my stay? My observations were more about the lack of urgency in the area of customer service. People seem to move at one pace…slow…and this made me ponder why I’m always in such a hurry, which isn’t a bad “ponder.” At the grocery store, at a museum, the airport—they seem more interested in each other, doing their kiss-kiss routine, and catching up on their news. As a customer, I always felt like an after-thought. Except at Starbucks…OK, so this is a bum on the Champs-Elysees with a view of the Arc de Triomphe…and he gets a siesta any time he wants!

The Cluny Well

Every time I look at this picture, I wonder what they’ve lost…or what they’re looking at. The lady seems to be imitating the creature protruding from this old medieval well in the courtyard at the Cluny. I love it—and the museum, too!

Paris - An Outdoor Museum - Part II

This sculpture and fountain stands in square Viviani, which is across the Seine from Notre-Dame and close to the backyard of the Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre church. It was created in 1995 by Frenchman Georges Jeanclos, whose works are known for their depiction of human suffering.

The sign in front of the statue explains that Monsieur Jeanclos was inspired by the story of Saint Julien, a legend popular in the Middle Ages (4/16/07 blog). It presents Saint Julien on a triangular pyramid surrounded by three groups of sufferers supporting the bodies of others in acts of love, tenderness, and compassion. The forest, the hunt, the wounded bodies, the river, and the role of the ferryman—these figure prominently in the legend. The infants raising themselves above the water are moving forward to a better world. When it isn’t winter, a trickle of water flows from the heads of three stags to quench the thirst of everyone passing by.

French Tourism and Real Estate – Facts and Figures

The dollar has never been weaker versus the Euro than it is right now. In other words, it takes about $1.36 to buy one Euro. I remember the first time I visited Europe after the introduction of the Euro (2002) when one Euro cost only about $.86! Ahhh, those were the days.

In spite of this monetary nose-dive (if you’re an American), the Maison de la France (French Government Tourist Office) states that France is still the world’s #1 tourist destination. Seventy-eight million foreign travelers visited France in 2006, an increase of 2.7% over 2005. Most tourists are European—first the Brits and then the Germans; even more Chinese visited in 2006 (600,000). Americans are slowly coming back; France remains the second most popular destination for Americans boarding flights headed to the European Union. Statistics cite 3.1 million American tourists visiting France in 2006. Not bad considering how the cost of airline tickets has shot up along with the cost of the Euro.

The tourism business in France employs some two million people; 846,000 workers work in restaurants, cafes, and hotels. This is an annual increase of 2.5% compared with the 1% rise in other sectors. This means that 19,200 jobs were created in 2006, the highest number in five years.

Total revenues from foreign tourists rose by almost as much (2.7%). A major slice of this income is attributed to the accommodation industry; tourists, obviously, always need a place to stay. With France’s ongoing popularity with high-spending travelers, the rental market is as lucrative as ever.

You can purchase French property at an average price of 176,000 euros compared with Britain (284,000), Ireland (240,024), Netherlands (224,000), and Spain (220,000). According to a report published by Urban Land Institute (based in Washington DC) and Pricewaterhouse Coopers, Paris still has good prospects for the next two years. The capital city rates high for both total return and low risk, and thus its risk-adjusted total return prospects are judged the best in Europe. Survey respondents, 400 of the industry’s leading authorities to identify Europe’s top cities for real estate, pointed to the city’s economic stability and sustainability, in addition to its status as a global getaway. Ample urban regeneration and redevelopment opportunities also attract investors.

Earlier this month, the Chambre de Notaires showed that 8.1% of Paris apartments put on the market between June 2005 and June 2006 were sold to non-resident foreigners compared with 5.7% ten years ago. One apartment out of 12 was sold to non-residents last year compared to one out of 17 during the ‘90s. The influx of foreign money is pushing out local citizens, which is not very popular. It’s known as “museification”; i.e., Paris becoming a museum rather than a vibrant city—like Venice, which emptied of permanent residents in lieu of occasional visitors and is now strictly a haven for tourists.

Prices for real estate vary, obviously, depending upon the arrondissement in which property is located. Ile Saint-Louis (the island behind Notre-Dame) is particularly affected and prices there are reaching as high as 20,000 euros ($27,200) per square meter. And even after purchasing a Parisian apartment, the average renovation costs (upgrading the kitchen, installation of an American bathroom, etc.) are 1,000 euros per square meter ($1,360). Still a very expensive proposition. (By the way, the average size of a Paris apartment is slightly less than 50 square meters or 538 square feet.) However, if the apartment is rented to tourists—and that market is very active--, many baby boomers and retirees feel the investment is well worth it. Plus, they gain a place to stay when they vacation in Europe. A win-win if you can afford the prices!

PS – The Ile Saint-Louis was originally two smaller islands: the Ile aux Vaches (Island of the Cows), originally nothing but pasture, and the Ile Notre-Dame, the site of judicial duels during the Middle Ages. In the 17th century, the two islands were united. Lords and financiers then built their homes here, still standing today as one of Paris’ most beautiful (and expensive!) residential areas.

Paris Markets - Part V - Ile de la Cite

It’s a beautiful Sunday in Houston and it’s sunny… Makes me want to walk out the door and go to the flower market on the Ile de la Cite. Right between the Palais de Justice and Notre-Dame. And the birds would be chirping because there’s also a bird market there every Sunday. Alas, I’ll have to be happy with a walk around Houston Memorial Park’s three-mile track…PS – The Ile de la Cite is the birthplace of Paris, where the Parisii tribe lived and where the Romans camped out when they conquered them in 52 AD. The city was first named Lutecia from the Latin word meaning “mud,” probably because it was a mound of dirt soaked with waters from the Seine. Three medieval buildings still remain on the Ile de la Cite: The Cathedral of Notre-Dame de Paris (built from 1163); King Louis IX’s Sainte-Chapelle (1245), built as a reliquary to house the relics of the Crown of Thorns and a piece of the True Cross, enclosed within the Palais de Justice; and the Conciergerie prison (2/27/07 post), where Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette awaited execution in 1793.

More Favorites at the Louvre

This month, the Louvre continues its efforts to appear more modern by inviting eleven artists to create contemporary works to display in the Richelieu wing. With most of the its “famous” art (Mona Lisa, Venus de Milo, Winged Victory, Michelangelo’s Slaves, Delacroix’s Liberty Leading the People, etc.) in the Denon wing*, the Richelieu attracts fewer visitors. Even The Da Vinci Code has nothing to say about the art in this wing.

I spent lots more time in the Richelieu wing on this trip and enjoyed many of the treasures that I discovered. The sculptures are beautiful—I loved the Marly courtyard and its display of them in the natural light under a glass-covered roof—as are the rooms from Napoleon III’s apartment and many ancient Mesopotamian artifacts. Here are some of the pieces that captured my attention during my many visits. The Louvre's architecture and the manner in which the pieces are displayed is often as impressive as the artwork itself. I miss my strolls through that beautiful place...
*Baron Dominique-Vivant Denon studied to be a lawyer but ended up being the confidant of kings, mistresses of kings, and emporers starting with Louix XV, Madame de Pompadour, straight on through to Napoleon. He was eventually hired by Napoleon as Acquisitions Director for the new Napoleon wing of the Louvre and has most often been described as 'Napoleon's Eye.'

As a favorite at Louis XV's Versailles, he weathered the Revolution thanks to his fellow artist friend, David, who secured him a job as a republican uniform designer. Denon accompanied Napoleon on his exhibitions to Egypt, consequently creating the anchor for the Louvre's Egyptian department. His curatorship lasted well into the Restoration Era so Denon's influence on French culture lasted through two kings, a revolution, an emperor, a citizen king, and a republic.

Dance Class

Trish did a great job on this photo she took of Karlee’s first dance class this month. It reminds me of an Edward Degas painting, many of which are displayed so beautifully in Le Musee d’Orsay in Paris. I love it! But again, I may be prejudice…

Karlee is at the far left in the photo but also reflected in the mirror. Her mother is kneeling below the other mothers outside the window in the center of the photo.

Old Architectural Fountains

When walking around the old parts of Paris, it is not unusual to run into an unexpected architectural detail, like this trickling lion-faced fountain in a little open courtyard or at the intersection of two streets. Before these fountains were built, Parisians had to walk to the Seine, Canal Saint Martin, etc. to get their daily water for drinking, cooking, and bathing. These still serve a purpose today for the street people and for others walking by who want a drink (eau potable) or to wash their hands or fresh fruit.

This fountain (fontaine Boucherat), erected by architect Jean Beausire in 1699 and named in honor of Chancellor Boucherat, was down the street from me at the intersection of rue Charlot and rue de Turenne in the Marais. Monsieur Beausire, the son of a bricklayer, became an expert mason and was named controller of the city's buildings in 1690. The Latin inscription at the top of the monument (not visible in this photo) translates to “Just as the happy peace concluded by King Louis will spread abundance in the town of Paris, this fountain will give him its water.” He was referring to the Sun King, Louis XIV.

The water was turned off but this could’ve been because it was winter—like the Wallace Fountains (1/30/07 blog), freezing can harm the mechanisms on these old fountains.

Paris Passages - Part III

The Passage du Grand Cerf, dating from around 1830, is the highest of all Parisian passages (about 40 feet). It is considered one of the most attractive in Paris and hosts the twice-yearly designers’ flea market, the Puces du Design. It is a block off the rue Montorgueil street market which I blogged about on 2/25/07, 4/5/07 and 4/6/07.

In this passage, of which parts are under renovation, there was a very interesting photo posted – “Do you remember the ancient boutiques?” The sign indicates that the occupants in those days included a toy store, a cabinetmaker, a dressmaker, a French-Spanish restaurant, and, believe it or not, a hairdresser. Previously, this was the place for a restaurant with the same name (Big Stag) which, until the Revolution, was the departure and arrival point of mail coaches for the Messageries Royales, destroyed in 1825.

Passages Jouffroy et Verdeau are two long galleries that connect with several other smaller passages and give you a good idea of the elaborate network of arcades that once existed around the Grands Boulevards. They opened in 1845 and 1846, respectively. Jouffroy was built using the new construction technique—metal framework with window panes in the roof. It currently contains a walking cane shop and one selling dollhouse furnishings.

Built in 1845, Passage de la Madeleine houses some charming luxury boutiques as well as a fancy restaurant. It is often mistaken for the Jouffroy Passage.

A girl could spend hours in the Paris passages.

PS - Speaking of spending (ha! "spending"--get it??) hours--try the Grands Boulevards which are a number of boulevards between the place de la Bastille to the Madeline Church, past l'Opera and near place Vendome. Along them you will find lots of shops (fancy and not-so-fancy), restaurants, cafes, theatres, cinemas, etc.

One of the most famous and oldest music halls in Paris is the Olympia, on boulevard Capucines, which was opened in 1889 by the man who also created the Moulin Rouge (Mr. Oller). Many famous performers starred in this theatre (it is still open), including Edith Piaf who saved the Olympia from bankrupcty several times. It was considered "her" theatre and was the venue for the last scene in her 2007 movie, "La Vie en Rose." Ahhh, loved that movie...

Rubbing his Foot

The tradition of rubbing Saint Peter’s right foot is supposed to bring you good luck and blessings—and even absolve you of your sins. On the statues where you can reach his foot, millions of hands have worn it smooth and shiny from centuries of this devotion. Sometimes the constant rubbing makes the foot appear deformed.

Suz and I always rubbed Saint Peter’s foot when we passed him in churches (the photo above was taken at Montmartre's Sacre Coeur). But we couldn’t reach this one in Sainte-Trinite.

The final photo was taken in the Saint-Sulpice church on the Left Bank.

The Royal Gardener

Andre Le Notre was the “author of this garden, and those of Versailles, Chantilly, Saint Cloud, Meudon, and many more beautiful French parks.” That’s the translation of the engraving behind his statue at the place de la Concorde entry to the Tuileries. Le Notre was the son of Louis XIII’s gardener; and after studying math, architecture, and classical painting, he finally threw in the towel (or the trowel…) at the age of 40 to become a gardener like his father, grandfather, godfather, and the husband of his godmother. There was no way, I guess, that he could escape this destiny! He became King Louis XIV’s landscape architect and his gardener and succeeded his father as the King’s Gardener of the Tuileries. The list of gardens and parks he designed is quite extensive plus he is credited with extending the view of the Tuileries. This was the birth of the Champs-Elysees and the park-like setting around that beautiful avenue. He also designed the Luxembourg Gardens (see 2/5/07 post).
You just never know what morsel of information you might get by pausing next to a statue and reading the inscription....

Paris Churches - Part IX - Sainte-Trinite

The Church of Sainte-Trinite is a product of the Industrial Revolution and the Second Empire, which means it is relatively new among Paris churches (1867). The exterior—impressive especially at night—is very eclectic: part Gothic, part Renaissance and part contemporary with ornate decorations on almost every available surface. The tower, one of the tallest in Paris, looks to be different smaller towers stacked on top of each other to make one. The interior has a wide nave surrounded by galleries and embellished with sculptures. The focal point is the main altar, framed by enormous stained glass windows with a grand frieze above. Everything seems so fancy and colorful in this church—it rises right up in front of you, both outside and inside.

Sushi Anyone?

A large Asian community lived in my Marais neighborhood. They obviously owned and worked at the stores selling purses, beads, scarves, knick knacks, clothes, souvenirs, etc that covered blocks and blocks around my apartment. En gros signs were posted on door after door as you walked down the street past these shops; in other words, don't bother entering if you're not a wholesaler.
There were at least four sushi shops within several blocks of my front door. I don’t know if there’s any relationship between those two facts. (God forbid I be politically incorrect!) I walked by one or more of these shops every day; two of them had a fleet of these cute little delivery motorbikes. The drivers (almost always Asian), with their copies of the plan de Paris (maps), hung around chatting on the sidewalk, smoking their cigarettes, and waiting for the next delivery. Sometimes when they grabbed a delivery bag, they flipped through their map to find the location before hopping on the bike and flying down the street. At least one restaurant had a couple of tables but the others appeared to be delivery restaurants only. My son-in-law can eat his weight in sushi so I always thought of Doug when I noticed the activity around the sushi shops.

Here She is Again, Mademoiselle Tour Eiffel

You really can’t see her too many times. I just learned from one of the many blogs I read that photographing the Eiffel Tower at night for commercial use or publication is forbidden because the lighting is copyrighted. There’s no problem using the image taken during daylight. Tres interessant.
By the way, the Eiffel Tower is the site of a big celebration every Bastille Day (July 14, their "4th of July," shall we say). Supposedly, they use three tons of powder to set off over 6,500 fireworks; and thousands of people have picnics all day on the parc du Champ de Mars in front of the Eiffel--very much like our 4th of July holiday.

Medieval Paris and More of the Latin Quarter

The area that begins across from Notre-Dame and around and behind the Shakespeare and Company Bookstore (2/26/07 blog) is the site of so much history; and this trip gave me more time to explore and read about the many stories.

The door was always locked at Saint-Julien le Pauvre every time I walked by, unfortunately, so I was never able to tour the inside. This small church which sits next to square Viviani (now belonging to a Greek Catholic sect) was built at the end of the 12th century and has preserved its originality in spite of the alterations imposed by the passing years. The sides of the building that are accessible show remains of the old foundation from the time of the Norman assaults plus an old well next to big slabs of stone left over from an old Roman road leading to Spain. Some of the medieval stones in the yard are also from the restorations of Notre-Dame. Sitting on the Seine side of the church is the oldest tree planted in Paris (1602). This acacia tree, nicknamed Robinier, is named after the guy who planted it—Jean Robin. It is listing, as you can see in the picture, but is propped up with a couple of concrete pillars where the trunk has split. Parisians insist it is still living but it is covered with ivy, so it may be wishful thinking…but I think it's alive...

There are several stories about the name of the church but the most interesting one is that it was named after a bishop who gave away all his money. According to legend, on the night of Julien’s birth, his father saw pagan witches secretly jinx his son into killing both of his parents. Therefore, his father wanted to get rid of the child but his mother would not agree. When Julien found out at age 10 why his mom regularly cried because of the sin he was destined to commit, he swore he would never do such a sin and left home.

Twenty years later, his parents decided to search for their son and after praying in a church in the midst of their travels, they met a woman sitting outside the church. She offered them shelter and rest from their travels; and in the course of their conversations, they realized they were related by marriage. In the meantime, an enemy told Julien that his wife had a lover so he returned home early from his hunting trip. Unbeknownst to him, his wife invited his parents to sleep in her husband’s and her bedroom, the most beautiful in the home. When Julien thought he had discovered his wife and her lover, in a fit of rage, he killed the couple found in his bed.

When Julien realized that he had killed his own parents, thus proving true the witches' jinx, he was obviously distraught and thereafter took a vow of poverty (pauvre means “poor”). He and his wife built seven hospitals and 25 houses as well as a hospice on the banks of a river where they provided shelter and ferry service for pilgrims and other poor travelers. One evening during a terrible storm, a man asked Julien to accommodate his trip across the river. After some hesitation, he agreed and in the middle of the river, the foreigner (disguised as a leper) revealed his identity. As the legend claims, the man was Christ who forgave Julien his sins. He thereafter became the patron saint of travelers and ferrymen and also, of hunters. A 14th century bas-relief, depicting this scene can still be seen on the wall of a building on rue Galande. (Believe me, this was the short version of the legend…)

I love the blood red door on the other side of the church—which is actually an entry to the backside of a building facing rue Galande. This door belongs to the Caveau des Oubliettes (cellar or vault of cells), an underground jazz club in which the owners claim was once a prison. The current entrance is now around the corner on rue Galande. Oubliettes were cells where prisoners were put in solitary confinement (the word comes from the French word ‘to forget’). Even though there’s supposedly a guillotine in the establishment, some research indicates that the cells were for monks, not for prisoners.

Paris Churches - Part VIII - Saint-Nicolas des Champs

Boy, I saw a lot of churches! Saint-Nicolas des Champs was constructed in 1420 and significantly enlarged in 1541; another building project in 1615 took it to its present form today. Flamboyant in style with a Renaissance entrance, a 19th century restoration added many works by contemporary artists. Parts of the nave still date from the original construction.

The beautiful interior is remarkably light (twenty-five large windows) compared to its rough exterior, which has had a long life, and the surrounding neighborhood (although the neighborhood is on it’s way back).

Among the beautiful 17th century artwork is the only large Parisian altarpiece that has remained in its original place in spite of the Revolution and its turbulence.

Roman numerals on the pillars--do these depict each century since Christ? I couldn't find any reference about these markings.

Louis XIV

This sculpture of the famous Sun King, sitting in the courtyard of the Carnavelet Museum since 1890, is one of the rare royal statues that went through the French Revolution (1789) without damage. As mentioned before (1/3/07 blog), the museum tells the story of French history and is housed in a beautiful 16th century grand private residence (hotel).

The artist, Antoine Coysevox, sculpted this in 1689. He also created some of the statues on the Versailles façade and the magnificent Fame and Mercury horses for the Marly hunting lodge (the originals are in the Louvre; copies stand at the place de la Concorde). (Refer to 3/17/07 blog.) Coysevox also did a bust of Jacques Gabriel, one of Louis XIV’s architects after he’d been dead for 25 years. That artwork sits in the Musee Jacquemart-Andre (2/28/07 blog).

It seems silly but it was a custom—Louis wore Roman attire and then crowned it with his curly French wig. This is even more interesting because French history consistently describes banishment of the Romans from ancient Paris! Oh, the French…

Faire du Leche-Vitrines

Window shopping to us; “window licking” to the French. Oui, c’est vrai! And you can spend every day of your vacation doing nothing but this. Here are photos of some interesting shop window displays. This butcher on the Ile Saint-Louis is very proud, as he should be, of all the grand prize awards he’s won for his cuts of meat. Lots of shoes.....red (I think I took this around Valentine's Day). Yummm, look at these treats!

And this was taken on the ritzy Place Vendome.