Last night I visited the Arc de Triomphe for the 6:30 PM ceremony conducted under the massive arch at the tomb of an unknown soldier. This happens every evening—and has since just after World War I—when the continually-burning flame is re-stoked by war veterans and new flowers are set in place.When I popped out of the Charles de Gaulle-Etoile Metro stop in place Charles-de-Gaulle at 6:00, about 40 soldiers in all sizes, shapes, and physical conditions were already lined up with families or guests of a soldier or two to be honored, I presume. There were two large flower arrangements lying on the ground as everyone mingled and found their places on the sidewalk next to the Champs-Elysees across from the Arc. After snapping 
some shots , I hurriedly rushed into the underpass (that runs under the huge roundabout of traffic circling the Arc) so that I could be next to it when the “boys” marched a half block down one side of the Champs-Elysees to enter the place. I didn’t have the best place to stand but I heard a band and there was singing, plus much shaking of hands, as well as appropriate somberness and the bise-bise (kisses on both cheeks). 
some shots , I hurriedly rushed into the underpass (that runs under the huge roundabout of traffic circling the Arc) so that I could be next to it when the “boys” marched a half block down one side of the Champs-Elysees to enter the place. I didn’t have the best place to stand but I heard a band and there was singing, plus much shaking of hands, as well as appropriate somberness and the bise-bise (kisses on both cheeks). One stately-looking gentleman’s walk from the tomb to the base of the place signaled the gendarmes to stop traffic so he could greet the marchers. A Frenchman next to me explained
that he was the general—noted by the red sash with a large medallion. (Fortunately, the words general and medaillion, except for the pronunciation, are about the same in English so I understood what he was telling me!) The ceremony lasted about 20-25 minutes and then the “boys” rolled their flags back up, put them in their carryi
ng cases, and took off for their various Metro stops to return home. They were certainly spry for their ages and injuries; and I was duly impressed.
So tonight I happened to be in the same area around the same time and I decided to get a different perspective. I was able to stand behind the guard railings near enough to the tomb to smell the flowers. But tonight the mechanics were a little different: no stopping of traffic, no march across the Champs-Elysees, and only about 10 flag bearers (some I recognized from last night). There was also a group of soldiers who were obviously just as excited as me to be there—lining up and taking photos of each other as they waited for the ceremony to begin. It took a lot of time to do the staging—a very-decorated older gentleman (maybe another general?) and a lady were explaining over and over to the group of soldiers where to stand, what to do, when to move. 
Since they do this every night, I’m surmising that a different military company or troop is invited to participate in each ceremony. Two old soldiers laid one wreath on the tomb and then, with the use of a sword, they stoked the flame which becomes noticeable higher (it is very low when you see it before the ceremony). Finally, they signed a huge book that obviously documents all those who take part in this daily ceremony. A handful of people (plus three grade-school children) were invited guests but they only shook hands with the two wreath-bearers (no bise-bise) so they must not have been family members.
Everybody recognizes the Arc de Triomphe sitting at the top of the Champs-Elysees. This monument was built in 1809 to honor Napoleon’s victories and also to pay homage to the French armies. At 165 feet high and148 feet wide, it is the largest construction of its type and in fact is the second tallest arch in the world (North Korea has a taller one built in 1982).
Napoleon and his two successors spent many millions of francs on this structure, which foreign
armies later used to humiliate the French by marching through the arch. Napoleon actually died prior to the Arc’s completion; but it was finished when they brought his remains back to Paris from exile after he’d been dead for 19 years—his 1840 funeral procession passed underneath. These days, the most famous procession is the Bastille Day celebration on July 14th which is composed of a parade led by the French President and an entourage of flags, tanks and guns. Hard to picture but it must be quite a sight.
On the pavement and on each of the pillars are lists of France’s victories since the Revolution. Among those, you’ll also see the names of 558 generals; those that are underlined died in the field. One of four bas reliefs (sculptures) on a pillar by Francois Rude is called “The
Marseilles” (La Marseillaise), named after the French National Anthem. Lady Liberty (the model was Rude's wife, Sophie Fremiet, a painter) is seen rallying the tired soldiers to continue their fight against oppression. Another pillar shows Napoleon (of course) being crowned, with Paris kneeling at his feet.
You can choose to climb the 244 marches (steps) for the view but since I’ve already done that, I haven’t done it on this trip. More than the view, most people are captivated by the traffic below them—better known as the place de l’Etoile (star) and the world’s first organized roundabout, out from which 12 avenues branch. An insurance note—any time there’s an accident, it’s automatically settled in direct proportion to the number of drivers involved: i.e., two drivers, 50/50; a third for each of three drivers, etc. This saves the insurance companies (not to mention the drivers) lots of time and money, I'm sure. And always use the undergound passage from the Charles de Gaulle-Etoile Metro stop instead of attempting to dart across the place de l'Etoile! Not a good idea!!!!
that he was the general—noted by the red sash with a large medallion. (Fortunately, the words general and medaillion, except for the pronunciation, are about the same in English so I understood what he was telling me!) The ceremony lasted about 20-25 minutes and then the “boys” rolled their flags back up, put them in their carrying cases, and took off for their various Metro stops to return home. They were certainly spry for their ages and injuries; and I was duly impressed.So tonight I happened to be in the same area around the same time and I decided to get a different perspective. I was able to stand behind the guard railings near enough to the tomb to smell the flowers. But tonight the mechanics were a little different: no stopping of traffic, no march across the Champs-Elysees, and only about 10 flag bearers (some I recognized from last night). There was also a group of soldiers who were obviously just as excited as me to be there—lining up and taking photos of each other as they waited for the ceremony to begin. It took a lot of time to do the staging—a very-decorated older gentleman (maybe another general?) and a lady were explaining over and over to the group of soldiers where to stand, what to do, when to move. Since they do this every night, I’m surmising that a different military company or troop is invited to participate in each ceremony. Two old soldiers laid one wreath on the tomb and then, with the use of a sword, they stoked the flame which becomes noticeable higher (it is very low when you see it before the ceremony). Finally, they signed a huge book that obviously documents all those who take part in this daily ceremony. A handful of people (plus three grade-school children) were invited guests but they only shook hands with the two wreath-bearers (no bise-bise) so they must not have been family members.Everybody recognizes the Arc de Triomphe sitting at the top of the Champs-Elysees. This monument was built in 1809 to honor Napoleon’s victories and also to pay homage to the French armies. At 165 feet high and148 feet wide, it is the largest construction of its type and in fact is the second tallest arch in the world (North Korea has a taller one built in 1982).Napoleon and his two successors spent many millions of francs on this structure, which foreign
armies later used to humiliate the French by marching through the arch. Napoleon actually died prior to the Arc’s completion; but it was finished when they brought his remains back to Paris from exile after he’d been dead for 19 years—his 1840 funeral procession passed underneath. These days, the most famous procession is the Bastille Day celebration on July 14th which is composed of a parade led by the French President and an entourage of flags, tanks and guns. Hard to picture but it must be quite a sight.On the pavement and on each of the pillars are lists of France’s victories since the Revolution. Among those, you’ll also see the names of 558 generals; those that are underlined died in the field. One of four bas reliefs (sculptures) on a pillar by Francois Rude is called “The
Marseilles” (La Marseillaise), named after the French National Anthem. Lady Liberty (the model was Rude's wife, Sophie Fremiet, a painter) is seen rallying the tired soldiers to continue their fight against oppression. Another pillar shows Napoleon (of course) being crowned, with Paris kneeling at his feet.You can choose to climb the 244 marches (steps) for the view but since I’ve already done that, I haven’t done it on this trip. More than the view, most people are captivated by the traffic below them—better known as the place de l’Etoile (star) and the world’s first organized roundabout, out from which 12 avenues branch. An insurance note—any time there’s an accident, it’s automatically settled in direct proportion to the number of drivers involved: i.e., two drivers, 50/50; a third for each of three drivers, etc. This saves the insurance companies (not to mention the drivers) lots of time and money, I'm sure. And always use the undergound passage from the Charles de Gaulle-Etoile Metro stop instead of attempting to dart across the place de l'Etoile! Not a good idea!!!!
