Wednesday, April 25, 2007

Lazy French?

In early February, France’s health minister recommended that an afternoon nap become government policy. Huh? He suggested $10 million be pledged to a program to make France more like Latin countries where the siesta is king. This is very interesting because according to some sources, France already has the reputation for being the laziest country in Europe. French workers enjoy 35 holidays a year as well as many other benefits, including at least a 90-minute lunch.

Did I see any evidence of French laziness during my stay? My observations were more about the lack of urgency in the area of customer service. People seem to move at one pace…slow…and this made me ponder why I’m always in such a hurry, which isn’t a bad “ponder.” At the grocery store, at a museum, the airport—they seem more interested in each other, doing their kiss-kiss routine, and catching up on their news. As a customer, I always felt like an after-thought. Except at Starbucks…OK, so this is a bum on the Champs-Elysees with a view of the Arc de Triomphe…and he gets a siesta any time he wants!

The Cluny Well

Every time I look at this picture, I wonder what they’ve lost…or what they’re looking at. The lady seems to be imitating the creature protruding from this old medieval well in the courtyard at the Cluny. I love it—and the museum, too!

Monday, April 23, 2007

Paris - An Outdoor Museum - Part II

This sculpture and fountain stands in square Viviani, which is across the Seine from Notre-Dame and close to the backyard of the Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre church. It was created in 1995 by Frenchman Georges Jeanclos, whose works are known for their depiction of human suffering.


The sign in front of the statue explains that Monsieur Jeanclos was inspired by the story of Saint Julien, a legend popular in the Middle Ages (4/16/07 blog). It presents Saint Julien on a triangular pyramid surrounded by three groups of sufferers supporting the bodies of others in acts of love, tenderness, and compassion. The forest, the hunt, the wounded bodies, the river, and the role of the ferryman—these figure prominently in the legend. The infants raising themselves above the water are moving forward to a better world. When it isn’t winter, a trickle of water flows from the heads of three stags to quench the thirst of everyone passing by.

French Tourism and Real Estate – Facts and Figures

The dollar has never been weaker versus the Euro than it is right now. In other words, it takes about $1.36 to buy one Euro. I remember the first time I visited Europe after the introduction of the Euro (2002) when one Euro cost only about $.86! Ahhh, those were the days.

In spite of this monetary nose-dive (if you’re an American), the Maison de la France (French Government Tourist Office) states that France is still the world’s #1 tourist destination. Seventy-eight million foreign travelers visited France in 2006, an increase of 2.7% over 2005. Most tourists are European—first the Brits and then the Germans; even more Chinese visited in 2006 (600,000). Americans are slowly coming back; France remains the second most popular destination for Americans boarding flights headed to the European Union. Statistics cite 3.1 million American tourists visiting France in 2006. Not bad considering how the cost of airline tickets has shot up along with the cost of the Euro.

The tourism business in France employs some two million people; 846,000 workers work in restaurants, cafes, and hotels. This is an annual increase of 2.5% compared with the 1% rise in other sectors. This means that 19,200 jobs were created in 2006, the highest number in five years.

Total revenues from foreign tourists rose by almost as much (2.7%). A major slice of this income is attributed to the accommodation industry; tourists, obviously, always need a place to stay. With France’s ongoing popularity with high-spending travelers, the rental market is as lucrative as ever.

You can purchase French property at an average price of 176,000 euros compared with Britain (284,000), Ireland (240,024), Netherlands (224,000), and Spain (220,000). According to a report published by Urban Land Institute (based in Washington DC) and Pricewaterhouse Coopers, Paris still has good prospects for the next two years. The capital city rates high for both total return and low risk, and thus its risk-adjusted total return prospects are judged the best in Europe. Survey respondents, 400 of the industry’s leading authorities to identify Europe’s top cities for real estate, pointed to the city’s economic stability and sustainability, in addition to its status as a global getaway. Ample urban regeneration and redevelopment opportunities also attract investors.

Earlier this month, the Chambre de Notaires showed that 8.1% of Paris apartments put on the market between June 2005 and June 2006 were sold to non-resident foreigners compared with 5.7% ten years ago. One apartment out of 12 was sold to non-residents last year compared to one out of 17 during the ‘90s. The influx of foreign money is pushing out local citizens, which is not very popular. It’s known as “museification”; i.e., Paris becoming a museum rather than a vibrant city—like Venice, which emptied of permanent residents in lieu of occasional visitors and is now strictly a haven for tourists.

Prices for real estate vary, obviously, depending upon the arrondissement in which property is located. Ile Saint-Louis (the island behind Notre-Dame) is particularly affected and prices there are reaching as high as 20,000 euros ($27,200) per square meter. And even after purchasing a Parisian apartment, the average renovation costs (upgrading the kitchen, installation of an American bathroom, etc.) are 1,000 euros per square meter ($1,360). Still a very expensive proposition. (By the way, the average size of a Paris apartment is slightly less than 50 square meters or 538 square feet.) However, if the apartment is rented to tourists—and that market is very active--, many baby boomers and retirees feel the investment is well worth it. Plus, they gain a place to stay when they vacation in Europe. A win-win if you can afford the prices!

PS – The Ile Saint-Louis was originally two smaller islands: the Ile aux Vaches (Island of the Cows), originally nothing but pasture, and the Ile Notre-Dame, the site of judicial duels during the Middle Ages. In the 17th century, the two islands were united. Lords and financiers then built their homes here, still standing today as one of Paris’ most beautiful (and expensive!) residential areas.

Sunday, April 22, 2007

Paris Markets - Part V - Ile de la Cite

It’s a beautiful Sunday in Houston and it’s sunny… Makes me want to walk out the door and go to the flower market on the Ile de la Cite. Right between the Palais de Justice and Notre-Dame. And the birds would be chirping because there’s also a bird market there every Sunday. Alas, I’ll have to be happy with a walk around Houston Memorial Park’s three-mile track…PS – The Ile de la Cite is the birthplace of Paris, where the Parisii tribe lived and where the Romans camped out when they conquered them in 52 AD. The city was first named Lutecia from the Latin word meaning “mud,” probably because it was a mound of dirt soaked with waters from the Seine. Three medieval buildings still remain on the Ile de la Cite: The Cathedral of Notre-Dame de Paris (built from 1163); King Louis IX’s Sainte-Chapelle (1245), built as a reliquary to house the relics of the Crown of Thorns and a piece of the True Cross, enclosed within the Palais de Justice; and the Conciergerie prison (2/27/07 post), where Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette awaited execution in 1793.

More Favorites at the Louvre

This month, the Louvre continues its efforts to appear more modern by inviting eleven artists to create contemporary works to display in the Richelieu wing. With most of the its “famous” art (Mona Lisa, Venus de Milo, Winged Victory, Michelangelo’s Slaves, Delacroix’s Liberty Leading the People, etc.) in the Denon wing*, the Richelieu attracts fewer visitors. Even The Da Vinci Code has nothing to say about the art in this wing.

I spent lots more time in the Richelieu wing on this trip and enjoyed many of the treasures that I discovered. The sculptures are beautiful—I loved the Marly courtyard and its display of them in the natural light under a glass-covered roof—as are the rooms from Napoleon III’s apartment and many ancient Mesopotamian artifacts. Here are some of the pieces that captured my attention during my many visits. The Louvre's architecture and the manner in which the pieces are displayed is often as impressive as the artwork itself. I miss my strolls through that beautiful place...
*Baron Dominique-Vivant Denon studied to be a lawyer but ended up being the confidant of kings, mistresses of kings, and emporers starting with Louix XV, Madame de Pompadour, straight on through to Napoleon. He was eventually hired by Napoleon as Acquisitions Director for the new Napoleon wing of the Louvre and has most often been described as 'Napoleon's Eye.'

As a favorite at Louis XV's Versailles, he weathered the Revolution thanks to his fellow artist friend, David, who secured him a job as a republican uniform designer. Denon accompanied Napoleon on his exhibitions to Egypt, consequently creating the anchor for the Louvre's Egyptian department. His curatorship lasted well into the Restoration Era so Denon's influence on French culture lasted through two kings, a revolution, an emperor, a citizen king, and a republic.

Friday, April 20, 2007

Dance Class

Trish did a great job on this photo she took of Karlee’s first dance class this month. It reminds me of an Edward Degas painting, many of which are displayed so beautifully in Le Musee d’Orsay in Paris. I love it! But again, I may be prejudice…
Karlee is at the far left in the photo but also reflected in the mirror. Her mother is kneeling below the other mothers outside the window in the center of the photo.