More Favorites at the Louvre

This month, the Louvre continues its efforts to appear more modern by inviting eleven artists to create contemporary works to display in the Richelieu wing. With most of the its “famous” art (Mona Lisa, Venus de Milo, Winged Victory, Michelangelo’s Slaves, Delacroix’s Liberty Leading the People, etc.) in the Denon wing*, the Richelieu attracts fewer visitors. Even The Da Vinci Code has nothing to say about the art in this wing.

I spent lots more time in the Richelieu wing on this trip and enjoyed many of the treasures that I discovered. The sculptures are beautiful—I loved the Marly courtyard and its display of them in the natural light under a glass-covered roof—as are the rooms from Napoleon III’s apartment and many ancient Mesopotamian artifacts. Here are some of the pieces that captured my attention during my many visits. The Louvre's architecture and the manner in which the pieces are displayed is often as impressive as the artwork itself. I miss my strolls through that beautiful place...
*Baron Dominique-Vivant Denon studied to be a lawyer but ended up being the confidant of kings, mistresses of kings, and emporers starting with Louix XV, Madame de Pompadour, straight on through to Napoleon. He was eventually hired by Napoleon as Acquisitions Director for the new Napoleon wing of the Louvre and has most often been described as 'Napoleon's Eye.'

As a favorite at Louis XV's Versailles, he weathered the Revolution thanks to his fellow artist friend, David, who secured him a job as a republican uniform designer. Denon accompanied Napoleon on his exhibitions to Egypt, consequently creating the anchor for the Louvre's Egyptian department. His curatorship lasted well into the Restoration Era so Denon's influence on French culture lasted through two kings, a revolution, an emperor, a citizen king, and a republic.

Dance Class

Trish did a great job on this photo she took of Karlee’s first dance class this month. It reminds me of an Edward Degas painting, many of which are displayed so beautifully in Le Musee d’Orsay in Paris. I love it! But again, I may be prejudice…

Karlee is at the far left in the photo but also reflected in the mirror. Her mother is kneeling below the other mothers outside the window in the center of the photo.

Old Architectural Fountains

When walking around the old parts of Paris, it is not unusual to run into an unexpected architectural detail, like this trickling lion-faced fountain in a little open courtyard or at the intersection of two streets. Before these fountains were built, Parisians had to walk to the Seine, Canal Saint Martin, etc. to get their daily water for drinking, cooking, and bathing. These still serve a purpose today for the street people and for others walking by who want a drink (eau potable) or to wash their hands or fresh fruit.

This fountain (fontaine Boucherat), erected by architect Jean Beausire in 1699 and named in honor of Chancellor Boucherat, was down the street from me at the intersection of rue Charlot and rue de Turenne in the Marais. Monsieur Beausire, the son of a bricklayer, became an expert mason and was named controller of the city's buildings in 1690. The Latin inscription at the top of the monument (not visible in this photo) translates to “Just as the happy peace concluded by King Louis will spread abundance in the town of Paris, this fountain will give him its water.” He was referring to the Sun King, Louis XIV.

The water was turned off but this could’ve been because it was winter—like the Wallace Fountains (1/30/07 blog), freezing can harm the mechanisms on these old fountains.

Paris Passages - Part III

The Passage du Grand Cerf, dating from around 1830, is the highest of all Parisian passages (about 40 feet). It is considered one of the most attractive in Paris and hosts the twice-yearly designers’ flea market, the Puces du Design. It is a block off the rue Montorgueil street market which I blogged about on 2/25/07, 4/5/07 and 4/6/07.

In this passage, of which parts are under renovation, there was a very interesting photo posted – “Do you remember the ancient boutiques?” The sign indicates that the occupants in those days included a toy store, a cabinetmaker, a dressmaker, a French-Spanish restaurant, and, believe it or not, a hairdresser. Previously, this was the place for a restaurant with the same name (Big Stag) which, until the Revolution, was the departure and arrival point of mail coaches for the Messageries Royales, destroyed in 1825.

Passages Jouffroy et Verdeau are two long galleries that connect with several other smaller passages and give you a good idea of the elaborate network of arcades that once existed around the Grands Boulevards. They opened in 1845 and 1846, respectively. Jouffroy was built using the new construction technique—metal framework with window panes in the roof. It currently contains a walking cane shop and one selling dollhouse furnishings.

Built in 1845, Passage de la Madeleine houses some charming luxury boutiques as well as a fancy restaurant. It is often mistaken for the Jouffroy Passage.

A girl could spend hours in the Paris passages.

PS - Speaking of spending (ha! "spending"--get it??) hours--try the Grands Boulevards which are a number of boulevards between the place de la Bastille to the Madeline Church, past l'Opera and near place Vendome. Along them you will find lots of shops (fancy and not-so-fancy), restaurants, cafes, theatres, cinemas, etc.

One of the most famous and oldest music halls in Paris is the Olympia, on boulevard Capucines, which was opened in 1889 by the man who also created the Moulin Rouge (Mr. Oller). Many famous performers starred in this theatre (it is still open), including Edith Piaf who saved the Olympia from bankrupcty several times. It was considered "her" theatre and was the venue for the last scene in her 2007 movie, "La Vie en Rose." Ahhh, loved that movie...

Rubbing his Foot

The tradition of rubbing Saint Peter’s right foot is supposed to bring you good luck and blessings—and even absolve you of your sins. On the statues where you can reach his foot, millions of hands have worn it smooth and shiny from centuries of this devotion. Sometimes the constant rubbing makes the foot appear deformed.

Suz and I always rubbed Saint Peter’s foot when we passed him in churches (the photo above was taken at Montmartre's Sacre Coeur). But we couldn’t reach this one in Sainte-Trinite.

The final photo was taken in the Saint-Sulpice church on the Left Bank.

The Royal Gardener

Andre Le Notre was the “author of this garden, and those of Versailles, Chantilly, Saint Cloud, Meudon, and many more beautiful French parks.” That’s the translation of the engraving behind his statue at the place de la Concorde entry to the Tuileries. Le Notre was the son of Louis XIII’s gardener; and after studying math, architecture, and classical painting, he finally threw in the towel (or the trowel…) at the age of 40 to become a gardener like his father, grandfather, godfather, and the husband of his godmother. There was no way, I guess, that he could escape this destiny! He became King Louis XIV’s landscape architect and his gardener and succeeded his father as the King’s Gardener of the Tuileries. The list of gardens and parks he designed is quite extensive plus he is credited with extending the view of the Tuileries. This was the birth of the Champs-Elysees and the park-like setting around that beautiful avenue. He also designed the Luxembourg Gardens (see 2/5/07 post).
You just never know what morsel of information you might get by pausing next to a statue and reading the inscription....

Paris Churches - Part IX - Sainte-Trinite

The Church of Sainte-Trinite is a product of the Industrial Revolution and the Second Empire, which means it is relatively new among Paris churches (1867). The exterior—impressive especially at night—is very eclectic: part Gothic, part Renaissance and part contemporary with ornate decorations on almost every available surface. The tower, one of the tallest in Paris, looks to be different smaller towers stacked on top of each other to make one. The interior has a wide nave surrounded by galleries and embellished with sculptures. The focal point is the main altar, framed by enormous stained glass windows with a grand frieze above. Everything seems so fancy and colorful in this church—it rises right up in front of you, both outside and inside.