Random Closing Thoughts

I always include the following quote in my photo albums upon returning from a trip: “The fool who traveled is better off than the wise man who stayed home.” - Rashi, an 11th-century scholar. Ahead of his time, I think.

I really miss Paris and ending this blog, two months (already!) after I returned to the US, is like saying goodbye all over again. Fortunately, every day provides opportunities to relive my experiences and my memories. Both the laptop and desk top computers on my desk scroll through the thousands of photos I took; and each time I catch a glimpse of them, it puts a smile on my face. I continually marvel about my good fortune and the opportunity I had to take this little sabbatical, shall we say…

I’m still not sure why Paris “grabs” me so much but I am even more intrigued after my many trips and all the exploring I’ve done, especially during this one. I’ve always been more of a student than a “do-er” so as well as the sightseeing, I loved the reading and studying and the research I did in order to document my memories. Paris, like many, many places (obviously), has history hiding around every corner and most of it goes unnoticed by the general public. The blog became more meaningful to me because it was a great excuse to spend time as a true “student” of the city—connecting the dots. Just one example—Abelard and Heloise’s love story (2/12/07 blog); the home on Ile de la Cite with their sculptures and a plaque to their memory; their burial site at Pere Lachaise (2/13/07 blog). When I discover history like this and then see it with my own eyes, I say “ah HA!” And then I want to share it with everyone who cares to listen…

I am currently reading a series of mysteries set in Paris: “Murder in the Marais,” “Murder in the Bastille,” “Murder in Montmartre,” etc. by Cara Black. The author’s writing is getting better (in other words, I’ve read better literature) but what I really enjoy are her descriptions of the city, the streets she’s navigating, the neighborhoods, sights she’s passing—places I’ve walked by or been. More importantly, she’s reminding me of things I missed…so many places I didn’t get to and so many rues I didn’t walk along. But disappearing in these books and others is another way to relive the adventures I had…and add more things to my list for the next visit.

Soooo, that said...all good things (they say) must end. And thus ends my “This is Paris!” blog. Oscar Wilde said, “When they die, all good Americans go to Paris.” I was lucky—I got to spend time there before that “date.” And pay my respects, by the way, to Mr. Wilde—also in Pere Lachaise Cimetiere (another interesting story).

The two photos of me were taken by Suz.

Signs of Spring?

This photo was taken on a very sunny day on a ledge in Montmartre. The church in the background is Saint-Pierre de Montmartre, the lesser known church on the butte. The main one is the Basilica of Sacre Coeur (2/5/07 post), which sits right next door. The church, attributed by legend to Saint Denis in approximately 250 AD, is one of the oldest in Paris (1147)—some say Dante prayed here. According to Catholic tradition, it was an abbey of Benedictine monks and nuns and the location at which the Jesuits were founded. Of interest in the church—two original pillars of Roman origin used within the nave.

Colonnes de Buren

Mentioned in passing in a January post—the Colonnes de Buren, a monument created by the artist Daniel Buren, appears to be nothing more than striped pillars in various heights perfectly aligned in a building’s courtyard. Actually, the original installation of 260 marble pillars is named Les Deux Plateaux (the two levels) because it has an underground level covered by metal grilles. On this level, water is supposed to flow and at night the pillars are meant to be illuminated by floodlights. The upper columns are on the street level in the courtyard which used to be a parking lot.

Buren is known for using the stripe—a popular French fabric motif—in his artistic work and is often referred to as “the stripe guy.” He started by setting up hundreds of striped posters around Paris and later in 100+ Metro stations, finally blocking a gallery entrance with stripes at his first solo exhibition. Obviously, he has objected to traditional ways of presenting art through the museum and gallery system. Buren has drawn a lot of public attention and it hasn’t all been positive!

A dispute erupted in 1986 when Monsieur Buren began the installation of this artwork in the courtyard of the Palais Royal. Just like the Eiffel Tower (1889), the Louvre Pyramid ((1989) and the Pompidou Center (1977), the integration of the contemporary with the historic caused a public outcry. The Minister of Culture and Communication relaunched the project, finally completed in 1995, and Buren eventually attained leading artist status under President Francois Mitterrand. I really like them, along with the large reflective balls (created by the Belgian sculpture Pol Bury) and fountains scattered throughout the columns. The city has also installed small striped awnings above the windows around the square, which seem to pull everything together in this setting.

The building enclosing the artwork has its own interesting history. Cardinal Richelieu built this home, the Palais Cardinal, in 1629 and then bequeathed it to the French Crown. The vast, splendid building with an adjoining garden, which was renamed the Palais Royal, did not last long as a royal palace. It became the headquarters of the Dukes of Orleans and was off-limits to the police. During the minority of Louis XV, Louis Philip II (known as Philippe-Egalite, one of the Dukes) opened the gardens to all Parisians and enlarged the building with beautiful arcaded facades lined with shops and famous restaurants on three sides of the garden and a theatre at each end—one was the Comedie-Francaise, which is still there. It became a center of Parisian social and political intrigue and in fact was the site of a rebellion two days before the Bastille fell, signifying the start of the Revolution. “Let them eat cake…” Philippe-Egalite actually voted in favor of beheading his own cousin, Louis XVI. The complex now houses the Ministry of Culture and the Constitutional Council.

Back to the beautiful artwork. They say if you make a wish while launching a coin onto a column and succeed, your wish will come true. I read about that after I returned to the US so I didn’t get a chance to try it. My wish would’ve been to return to Paris—which will come true even though I didn’t toss a coin!

PS - In Feburary 2008, I read that because the lights don't work now and the water stopped flowing nearly seven years ago (only trash beneath the grilles), the "Stripe Guy" isn't happy! He's accused the French government of vandalizing his work with neglect; plus the pillars are dingy which makes the contrast between the black and white less striking. Monsieur Buren would like Les Deux Plateaux dismantled as it's really only half an art piece with the working half in a state of disrepair. Dismantling it would cost about the same as restoring it (about 3 million euros) but if restored, it would need regular maintenance. I love it and think it should be maintained.

Musee de l'Orangerie

In 1922, Monet donated a panoramic series of HUGE water lily paintings to France; and he chose l’Orangerie in the Tuileries Garden to house them. L’Orangerie, tucked in one corner overlooking the place de la Concorde, is a stone and glass building originally conceived as a hothouse to protect potted orange trees in the winter. The paintings were finally put in place there after Monet’s death in 1926.

L’Orangerie closed in 2000 for a $36 million renovation (to better present Monet's series) but didn’t reopen for six years because portions of an ancient city wall were found. These once surrounded the old city and had to be preserved. One portion of the ancient wall is visible—if my memory serves me correctly, it is on the lower level and around the corner to the left as you descend the stairs.

My sister and I were finally able to visit l'Orangerie during our 2006 trip. It is a WOW venue. Besides special exhibits and canvases by Renoir, Matisse, Picasso, Cezanne, etc., Monet’s eight beautiful panels of water lilies are shown in two oval-shaped rooms under skylights that re-create the natural light conditions Monet knew in the 1920s. As your eyes travel from one panel to another, you can see how he painted them in different light—something he did with cathedrals and other scenes in his Giverny gardens as well.

Since I didn't visit the museum on this trip, these are my sister's photos. It was hard to get them focused but this makes sense. Monet was struggling with cataracts at the time and was nearly blind. I wonder if this is how they looked to him. I loved them—there were lines of people waiting to visit the museum every time I walked by.

Invalides

I didn’t visit l’Hotel des Invalides this trip but want to document the stunning monument in such a beautiful setting on the Left Bank. My favorite bridge, Pont Alexandre III, leads across the Seine from the Right Bank, pass the impressive Air France building, and then across the vast Esplanade des Invalides before crossing an old moat and entering the grounds.
Louis XIV built the complex in the 1670’s to offer aid to old soldiers who were either begging in the streets or living off church charity. It soon became the main accommodations for all disabled and impoverished war veterans, housing up to 4,000 of them when it opened in 1676. It was immediately completed by by a chapel known as Eglise Saint-Louis des Invalides. The golden dome (added along with the Royal Chapel in 1708), which makes the structure the second-tallest monument in Paris, is a perfect symbol of the Sun King’s reign.
Napoleon was interred here in 1861, 19 years after his burial on St. Helena. He lies in a huge tomb designed by Visconti made out of Finnish woods (which holds six separate coffins before you get to his body) under the golden dome. His son, two brothers, and other military leaders also have tombs in this monument. There are several army museums in the old veterans’ hospital and also a church whose dome was inspired by St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome. I’ve visited the museum twice but I wasn’t that interested in swords, Napoleon’s stuffed and mounted horse, musketoons, suits of armor, cannons, General Daumesnil’s wooden leg, etc. There’s still a retirement home and medical center for disabled war veterans in the complex; and on any sunny day, you’ll notice old men in wheelchairs on the lawn enjoying the fresh air.

Café Life and Other Observations

It is true what you’ve heard about sitting in a Paris café, on their patio or sidewalk. One cup of café, a beer, a glass of wine can “buy” you a table for as many hours as you want. This is especially wonderful on a sunny day—which means that on those days, it’s very hard to find a seat in the outside dining area. After the waiter delivers your treat, you may never see the monsieur again. When you’re finally ready to leave, you’ll have to catch his eye to get your l’addition (bill). (All of the above is especially true in a non-tourist café or restaurant—you may sense a little more “encouragement” to leave an establishment in a tourist area; i.e., the bill delivered with your drink or food. This still doesn't mean you have to leave however..)

Waiters in Paris are professionals and respected in their role; they are not working part-time while going to school, waiting for their Hollywood break, etc. They do not appreciate being summoned using the word “Garcon” (boy); they are addressed as “Monsieur,” "Madame," or “Mademoiselle.” They definitely know their business, take pride in what they serve, and are knowledgeable about ingredients and methods of preparation.

This also reminds me of some tips I learned about choosing a good place to eat. Because Americans traveling in Europe are usually intimidated by the language, guidebooks recommend restaurants with menus in English and ones with English menus in the windows. In those restaurants, you will find waiters who always speak English (most of them do anyway) and other readers (tourists) of guidebooks. These restaurants are not necessarily better and are, more often than not, more expensive.

Clues to discovering the neighborhood spots—there’s usually a hand-written menu en francais in the window or on a slate (l’ardoise), which means that the menu changes daily to highlight the fresh ingredients (above photo). A board that displays a permanent menu (below)—just the opposite.

If the restaurant is empty at 1:00 or 9:00 PM, then it probably doesn’t have very good food, according to the locals. Another valuable hint: lace curtains are a sign of the little mom and pop spots, which are famous for good and less expensive food. When you’re on a budget, eat your biggest meal at lunch, which is always less expensive, and go light or cook at dinner (if you stay in an apartment). And the language? You can solve this issue by carrying a pocket menu decoder.

There is little that is truly cheap in Paris (except the .95 Euro cheeseburger at McDonald’s and I’m not above eating there) but prices are more reasonable in the neighborhood bistros (a Russian word meaning “hurry”) or brasseries, which serve food all day (fancy restaurants and many bistros open for lunch and then close during the afternoon before opening again for dinner). Food served in a bistro or brasserie may not be as beautifully presented but it can be delicious. Ordering a la carte or from the standard carte (menu) results in the highest bill. Most places offer a prix fixe or fixed-priced plat du jour (plate of the day) which is a suggested combination of courses and makes use of the food currently in season. Lucky you if it also includes a glass of house wine.

By the way, the cost of an average meal, which is usually two or three courses with at least one glass of wine—or two—and coffee is $25-30. This includes tax and tip (usually 15%); the menu will say service compris (service included). Even if it says service non compris (or not included), you will still see a service charge on the bill. So don’t get caught doing the American thing—leaving another 15% tip on the table. But it is customary to leave a Euro or two depending upon the quality of service. Bon appetit!

PS – The café photo at the top was taken by Suz in the Left Bank area.

More about Les Chiens

According to the Mairie de Paris (city hall), there are about 150,000 Parisian dogs depositing about 16 tons of—you know what—on the sidewalks annually. (Some sources say there are 550,000 canines in the city!) Mayor Delanoe’s edict in 2002 about cleaning up after your pets hasn’t exactly been followed (1/25/07 post); although 97% of dog owners claim that they do.... So the Mairie is launching a new ad campaign this week trying to persuade Parisians into keeping their city clean.

They are using humor as posted on this sign instead of the threat of fines as posted on the 2002 signs (183 euros which was largely ignored). The message is designed to be “neither moralizing nor repressive.” Its official goal is to recognize and highlight a positive evolution in current behaviors. The loose translation is, "All the left feet say: more and more dog owners pick up their pet droppings in Paris."

Frankly, I’ll be surprised if the clean-soled, talking left shoe really convinces many dog owners to tidy up after their cheries. The French just don’t seem to be receptive to all the "feel good" babble Americans are used to.

Lazy French?

In early February, France’s health minister recommended that an afternoon nap become government policy. Huh? He suggested $10 million be pledged to a program to make France more like Latin countries where the siesta is king. This is very interesting because according to some sources, France already has the reputation for being the laziest country in Europe. French workers enjoy 35 holidays a year as well as many other benefits, including at least a 90-minute lunch.

Did I see any evidence of French laziness during my stay? My observations were more about the lack of urgency in the area of customer service. People seem to move at one pace…slow…and this made me ponder why I’m always in such a hurry, which isn’t a bad “ponder.” At the grocery store, at a museum, the airport—they seem more interested in each other, doing their kiss-kiss routine, and catching up on their news. As a customer, I always felt like an after-thought. Except at Starbucks…OK, so this is a bum on the Champs-Elysees with a view of the Arc de Triomphe…and he gets a siesta any time he wants!

The Cluny Well

Every time I look at this picture, I wonder what they’ve lost…or what they’re looking at. The lady seems to be imitating the creature protruding from this old medieval well in the courtyard at the Cluny. I love it—and the museum, too!

Paris - An Outdoor Museum - Part II

This sculpture and fountain stands in square Viviani, which is across the Seine from Notre-Dame and close to the backyard of the Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre church. It was created in 1995 by Frenchman Georges Jeanclos, whose works are known for their depiction of human suffering.

The sign in front of the statue explains that Monsieur Jeanclos was inspired by the story of Saint Julien, a legend popular in the Middle Ages (4/16/07 blog). It presents Saint Julien on a triangular pyramid surrounded by three groups of sufferers supporting the bodies of others in acts of love, tenderness, and compassion. The forest, the hunt, the wounded bodies, the river, and the role of the ferryman—these figure prominently in the legend. The infants raising themselves above the water are moving forward to a better world. When it isn’t winter, a trickle of water flows from the heads of three stags to quench the thirst of everyone passing by.

French Tourism and Real Estate – Facts and Figures

The dollar has never been weaker versus the Euro than it is right now. In other words, it takes about $1.36 to buy one Euro. I remember the first time I visited Europe after the introduction of the Euro (2002) when one Euro cost only about $.86! Ahhh, those were the days.

In spite of this monetary nose-dive (if you’re an American), the Maison de la France (French Government Tourist Office) states that France is still the world’s #1 tourist destination. Seventy-eight million foreign travelers visited France in 2006, an increase of 2.7% over 2005. Most tourists are European—first the Brits and then the Germans; even more Chinese visited in 2006 (600,000). Americans are slowly coming back; France remains the second most popular destination for Americans boarding flights headed to the European Union. Statistics cite 3.1 million American tourists visiting France in 2006. Not bad considering how the cost of airline tickets has shot up along with the cost of the Euro.

The tourism business in France employs some two million people; 846,000 workers work in restaurants, cafes, and hotels. This is an annual increase of 2.5% compared with the 1% rise in other sectors. This means that 19,200 jobs were created in 2006, the highest number in five years.

Total revenues from foreign tourists rose by almost as much (2.7%). A major slice of this income is attributed to the accommodation industry; tourists, obviously, always need a place to stay. With France’s ongoing popularity with high-spending travelers, the rental market is as lucrative as ever.

You can purchase French property at an average price of 176,000 euros compared with Britain (284,000), Ireland (240,024), Netherlands (224,000), and Spain (220,000). According to a report published by Urban Land Institute (based in Washington DC) and Pricewaterhouse Coopers, Paris still has good prospects for the next two years. The capital city rates high for both total return and low risk, and thus its risk-adjusted total return prospects are judged the best in Europe. Survey respondents, 400 of the industry’s leading authorities to identify Europe’s top cities for real estate, pointed to the city’s economic stability and sustainability, in addition to its status as a global getaway. Ample urban regeneration and redevelopment opportunities also attract investors.

Earlier this month, the Chambre de Notaires showed that 8.1% of Paris apartments put on the market between June 2005 and June 2006 were sold to non-resident foreigners compared with 5.7% ten years ago. One apartment out of 12 was sold to non-residents last year compared to one out of 17 during the ‘90s. The influx of foreign money is pushing out local citizens, which is not very popular. It’s known as “museification”; i.e., Paris becoming a museum rather than a vibrant city—like Venice, which emptied of permanent residents in lieu of occasional visitors and is now strictly a haven for tourists.

Prices for real estate vary, obviously, depending upon the arrondissement in which property is located. Ile Saint-Louis (the island behind Notre-Dame) is particularly affected and prices there are reaching as high as 20,000 euros ($27,200) per square meter. And even after purchasing a Parisian apartment, the average renovation costs (upgrading the kitchen, installation of an American bathroom, etc.) are 1,000 euros per square meter ($1,360). Still a very expensive proposition. (By the way, the average size of a Paris apartment is slightly less than 50 square meters or 538 square feet.) However, if the apartment is rented to tourists—and that market is very active--, many baby boomers and retirees feel the investment is well worth it. Plus, they gain a place to stay when they vacation in Europe. A win-win if you can afford the prices!

PS – The Ile Saint-Louis was originally two smaller islands: the Ile aux Vaches (Island of the Cows), originally nothing but pasture, and the Ile Notre-Dame, the site of judicial duels during the Middle Ages. In the 17th century, the two islands were united. Lords and financiers then built their homes here, still standing today as one of Paris’ most beautiful (and expensive!) residential areas.

Paris Markets - Part V - Ile de la Cite

It’s a beautiful Sunday in Houston and it’s sunny… Makes me want to walk out the door and go to the flower market on the Ile de la Cite. Right between the Palais de Justice and Notre-Dame. And the birds would be chirping because there’s also a bird market there every Sunday. Alas, I’ll have to be happy with a walk around Houston Memorial Park’s three-mile track…PS – The Ile de la Cite is the birthplace of Paris, where the Parisii tribe lived and where the Romans camped out when they conquered them in 52 AD. The city was first named Lutecia from the Latin word meaning “mud,” probably because it was a mound of dirt soaked with waters from the Seine. Three medieval buildings still remain on the Ile de la Cite: The Cathedral of Notre-Dame de Paris (built from 1163); King Louis IX’s Sainte-Chapelle (1245), built as a reliquary to house the relics of the Crown of Thorns and a piece of the True Cross, enclosed within the Palais de Justice; and the Conciergerie prison (2/27/07 post), where Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette awaited execution in 1793.

More Favorites at the Louvre

This month, the Louvre continues its efforts to appear more modern by inviting eleven artists to create contemporary works to display in the Richelieu wing. With most of the its “famous” art (Mona Lisa, Venus de Milo, Winged Victory, Michelangelo’s Slaves, Delacroix’s Liberty Leading the People, etc.) in the Denon wing*, the Richelieu attracts fewer visitors. Even The Da Vinci Code has nothing to say about the art in this wing.

I spent lots more time in the Richelieu wing on this trip and enjoyed many of the treasures that I discovered. The sculptures are beautiful—I loved the Marly courtyard and its display of them in the natural light under a glass-covered roof—as are the rooms from Napoleon III’s apartment and many ancient Mesopotamian artifacts. Here are some of the pieces that captured my attention during my many visits. The Louvre's architecture and the manner in which the pieces are displayed is often as impressive as the artwork itself. I miss my strolls through that beautiful place...
*Baron Dominique-Vivant Denon studied to be a lawyer but ended up being the confidant of kings, mistresses of kings, and emporers starting with Louix XV, Madame de Pompadour, straight on through to Napoleon. He was eventually hired by Napoleon as Acquisitions Director for the new Napoleon wing of the Louvre and has most often been described as 'Napoleon's Eye.'

As a favorite at Louis XV's Versailles, he weathered the Revolution thanks to his fellow artist friend, David, who secured him a job as a republican uniform designer. Denon accompanied Napoleon on his exhibitions to Egypt, consequently creating the anchor for the Louvre's Egyptian department. His curatorship lasted well into the Restoration Era so Denon's influence on French culture lasted through two kings, a revolution, an emperor, a citizen king, and a republic.

Dance Class

Trish did a great job on this photo she took of Karlee’s first dance class this month. It reminds me of an Edward Degas painting, many of which are displayed so beautifully in Le Musee d’Orsay in Paris. I love it! But again, I may be prejudice…

Karlee is at the far left in the photo but also reflected in the mirror. Her mother is kneeling below the other mothers outside the window in the center of the photo.

Old Architectural Fountains

When walking around the old parts of Paris, it is not unusual to run into an unexpected architectural detail, like this trickling lion-faced fountain in a little open courtyard or at the intersection of two streets. Before these fountains were built, Parisians had to walk to the Seine, Canal Saint Martin, etc. to get their daily water for drinking, cooking, and bathing. These still serve a purpose today for the street people and for others walking by who want a drink (eau potable) or to wash their hands or fresh fruit.

This fountain (fontaine Boucherat), erected by architect Jean Beausire in 1699 and named in honor of Chancellor Boucherat, was down the street from me at the intersection of rue Charlot and rue de Turenne in the Marais. Monsieur Beausire, the son of a bricklayer, became an expert mason and was named controller of the city's buildings in 1690. The Latin inscription at the top of the monument (not visible in this photo) translates to “Just as the happy peace concluded by King Louis will spread abundance in the town of Paris, this fountain will give him its water.” He was referring to the Sun King, Louis XIV.

The water was turned off but this could’ve been because it was winter—like the Wallace Fountains (1/30/07 blog), freezing can harm the mechanisms on these old fountains.

Paris Passages - Part III

The Passage du Grand Cerf, dating from around 1830, is the highest of all Parisian passages (about 40 feet). It is considered one of the most attractive in Paris and hosts the twice-yearly designers’ flea market, the Puces du Design. It is a block off the rue Montorgueil street market which I blogged about on 2/25/07, 4/5/07 and 4/6/07.

In this passage, of which parts are under renovation, there was a very interesting photo posted – “Do you remember the ancient boutiques?” The sign indicates that the occupants in those days included a toy store, a cabinetmaker, a dressmaker, a French-Spanish restaurant, and, believe it or not, a hairdresser. Previously, this was the place for a restaurant with the same name (Big Stag) which, until the Revolution, was the departure and arrival point of mail coaches for the Messageries Royales, destroyed in 1825.

Passages Jouffroy et Verdeau are two long galleries that connect with several other smaller passages and give you a good idea of the elaborate network of arcades that once existed around the Grands Boulevards. They opened in 1845 and 1846, respectively. Jouffroy was built using the new construction technique—metal framework with window panes in the roof. It currently contains a walking cane shop and one selling dollhouse furnishings.

Built in 1845, Passage de la Madeleine houses some charming luxury boutiques as well as a fancy restaurant. It is often mistaken for the Jouffroy Passage.

A girl could spend hours in the Paris passages.

PS - Speaking of spending (ha! "spending"--get it??) hours--try the Grands Boulevards which are a number of boulevards between the place de la Bastille to the Madeline Church, past l'Opera and near place Vendome. Along them you will find lots of shops (fancy and not-so-fancy), restaurants, cafes, theatres, cinemas, etc.

One of the most famous and oldest music halls in Paris is the Olympia, on boulevard Capucines, which was opened in 1889 by the man who also created the Moulin Rouge (Mr. Oller). Many famous performers starred in this theatre (it is still open), including Edith Piaf who saved the Olympia from bankrupcty several times. It was considered "her" theatre and was the venue for the last scene in her 2007 movie, "La Vie en Rose." Ahhh, loved that movie...

Rubbing his Foot

The tradition of rubbing Saint Peter’s right foot is supposed to bring you good luck and blessings—and even absolve you of your sins. On the statues where you can reach his foot, millions of hands have worn it smooth and shiny from centuries of this devotion. Sometimes the constant rubbing makes the foot appear deformed.

Suz and I always rubbed Saint Peter’s foot when we passed him in churches (the photo above was taken at Montmartre's Sacre Coeur). But we couldn’t reach this one in Sainte-Trinite.

The final photo was taken in the Saint-Sulpice church on the Left Bank.

The Royal Gardener

Andre Le Notre was the “author of this garden, and those of Versailles, Chantilly, Saint Cloud, Meudon, and many more beautiful French parks.” That’s the translation of the engraving behind his statue at the place de la Concorde entry to the Tuileries. Le Notre was the son of Louis XIII’s gardener; and after studying math, architecture, and classical painting, he finally threw in the towel (or the trowel…) at the age of 40 to become a gardener like his father, grandfather, godfather, and the husband of his godmother. There was no way, I guess, that he could escape this destiny! He became King Louis XIV’s landscape architect and his gardener and succeeded his father as the King’s Gardener of the Tuileries. The list of gardens and parks he designed is quite extensive plus he is credited with extending the view of the Tuileries. This was the birth of the Champs-Elysees and the park-like setting around that beautiful avenue. He also designed the Luxembourg Gardens (see 2/5/07 post).
You just never know what morsel of information you might get by pausing next to a statue and reading the inscription....

Paris Churches - Part IX - Sainte-Trinite

The Church of Sainte-Trinite is a product of the Industrial Revolution and the Second Empire, which means it is relatively new among Paris churches (1867). The exterior—impressive especially at night—is very eclectic: part Gothic, part Renaissance and part contemporary with ornate decorations on almost every available surface. The tower, one of the tallest in Paris, looks to be different smaller towers stacked on top of each other to make one. The interior has a wide nave surrounded by galleries and embellished with sculptures. The focal point is the main altar, framed by enormous stained glass windows with a grand frieze above. Everything seems so fancy and colorful in this church—it rises right up in front of you, both outside and inside.